Yohji Yamamoto: Notebook on Cities and Clothes — A Film by Wim Wenders

Synopsis - Yohji Yamamoto: Notebooks on Cities and Its Clothes, directed by Wim Wenders

Notebook on Cities and Clothes is a cinematic masterpiece directed by the acclaimed filmmaker Wim Wenders, which delves into the world of fashion through the lens of the visionary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto.

Renowned for his exceptional avant-garde spirit of clothing, directional cuts, and masterful tailoring, Yohji Yamamoto has left an indelible mark on the fashion world. His signature style features an impressive array of textures in a color palette dominated by black and white.

The film serves as a meeting ground for Will and Yohji, who share a deep love and understanding of the world from a vintage philosophical perspective. Having been born and brought up in Tokyo, Japan, Yohji's recognition as a designer came only after he moved to Paris. He once said, "I like to consider myself less of a Japanese." However, Will describes Yohji's style as one that is "expressed simultaneously in two languages." This dual expression is exemplified in scenes where multiple recordings are playing together, one in the foreground and one in the background. These parallels passively show Yohji's understanding of the world and serve as a form of expressing his identity and aesthetic.

It shows a journey of self-discovery as Yohji decodes his identity and belonging, and his profound understanding of the two. The monologue about identity at the beginning of the film sets the tone for the entire narrative. Yohji's clothes have a unique ability to evoke memories and emotions in people, as Will puts it, "wearing a Yohji Yamamoto shirt reminded me of my childhood and my father as if the essence of this memory were tailored into it… What did Yamamoto know about me – about everybody?" This scene shows Will's fascination with Yohji's understanding of identity.

Yohji Yamamoto's life journey has been nothing short of eventful. Growing up in the post-World War era, he lost his father to the war and was raised by his mother, who worked as a seamstress. The close shadows of war during his childhood gave him a unique understanding of the world. This understanding is reflected in his love for the color black, which he considers to be the conclusion of color. In his own words, "White is all-natural, but black is the conclusion of color; when everything stirs and mixes, it turns black."

Yohji Yamamoto gained profound experiences while working in both Japan and France. It was during this time that he realized that the feeling of nationality in his designs was somewhat limiting. He realized that borders do not exist in the world of fashion and that his clothes should not be limited to a particular nation or culture. Yohji Yamamoto's design philosophy is centered around creating clothes that break down barriers and bring people together. His designs are a fusion of different cultures that tell a story and reflect his unique perspective on the world.

Yohji draws inspiration from photo books, which he believes are a way to understand people's lives through their clothes and faces. The clothes and silhouettes act as a second skin, giving the wearer a sense of identity and making them feel known and recognized. Asymmetry is a defining characteristic of his silhouette, which he is famous for. According to him, symmetry is not beautiful, and everything in this world that is decent, polite, or gracious comes from a balance of asymmetry; hence, fashion should not be an exception. Somehow, it doesn't describe the hands of humans, as humans can't make things perfect!

When asked about the secrecy surrounding his designs, Yohji's response was unexpected. He stated that he could show his sketches and fabrics without worrying about the secret. The true essence of his designs lies in the technical experience that cannot be copied. Each designer has their own language, and it is impossible to steal anyone's design ritual or language.

As a part of his design ritual, he starts "with the fabric first material, touch, then I go to the forms" a process of "take a step back, looking at the design, coming up again, grabbing, groping, doubting, sudden activity, and then another long pause".

In the documentary, there is a notable mention of Wenders, the director's, journey during the shooting, and his love for film and fashion. Despite his initial disbelief towards fashion, he gradually realized the relevance of the fashion industry in the world. "The Fashion world". I am interested in the world, not Fashion, but maybe I hurried too much to despise fashion. Why not examine it like any other industry? As the film, for example. Perhaps fashion and film have something in common." As a filmmaker, he saw a certain affinity between fashion and film and considered film to be a way of life.

In the film, he captures both the sense of beauty and the narcissistic quality of the designer's work. Throughout the film, Wenders uses cameras to film more cameras and screens, creating a diffracted and deferred effect. He shows small, grainy shots of Yamamoto working in his studio, smoking before a catwalk show, or fitting a model. In voiceovers, Wenders debates which camera to use for different scenes, weighing up their respective strengths and weaknesses.

At the beginning of the shooting, Wenders used a small film camera that required reloading every 60 seconds. However, later on, he transitioned to video cameras, which he believed could more accurately capture the phenomenon in front of him. According to him, the video images could more accurately capture the phenomenon in front as if "they had a certain affinity with Fashion". He also found the camcorder to be an ideal tool to use while shooting the documentary: "The camcorder did not impress or annoy anyone. I was just there."

In conclusion, "Notebook on Cities and Clothes" is a fascinating film that delves into the world of fashion through the lens of Yohji Yamamoto, a visionary Japanese designer. The film captures Yohji's unique perspective on the world, derived from his journey between two cities and finding identity, which is reflected in his designs. The film also shows the affinity between fashion and film and explores the creative process of both media.